Caribbean Adventures of the Third Kind

I clung precariously to the smooth rock face with my left hand; my right shoulder dislocated, full of pain, and hanging limp at my side. I wasn’t in the current – but I wasn’t in an eddy either. My partner, recognizing the gravity of the situation, was struggling to attain back to my position, but the current was clearly pulling him into the next rapid. Once he committed I would be on my own, the gorged-out walls and class IV rapid below me making any effort to reach me a futile one. I heard him yell “You don’t want to come this way” as he dropped over the horizon line.

“What do I do now?” This was the question I asked myself - a question that my tired grip necessitated a quick answer to. Alone, with one good arm, and hovering dangerously above an unknown rapid on an unknown river, I made the only choice available to me….

Our adventure began several days before with our arrival in Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic. Jon and I were on a scouting mission – evaluating this tropical island’s potential for NOC Adventure Travel Trips. We had been hunting for a Caribbean destination that was close to home and would offer the ideal combination of whitewater, adventure, beaches, and scenery. (Unbeknownst to us, we were about to find the first two in high abundance) We had heard reports of beautiful warm rivers flowing off Pico Duarte, the highest point in the Caribbeann. These reports also told of differing sections of whitewater, ranging from Class II through Class IV, friendly people, and incredible beaches. It was with high hopes that we loaded our rental car and drove off toward the mountainous center of the inland.

Our hopes faded slightly when word came from DHL that our boats had not arrived. With paddling postponed for a couple of days we decided to scout potential beaches for use in our programs. Driving our little Subaru Impresa in the Dominican Republic required an aggressive shift in attitude and the well-timed application of a few e-brake turns. After a harrowing class 5 drive we arrived at an incredibly beautiful beach with clear turquoise water. After snorkeling for a couple hours with the brightly colored residents of the local reef we headed back to our head quarters in Jarabacoa, the Rancho Baiquate.

The following day we made contact with a local U.S. expatriate paddler who was agreeable to renting us some kayaks. Much to my surprise, a rat the size of a Chiwawa came scurrying out of the boat I was to paddle, a Pyranha H3. Was this a portent of things to come? At least I did not have to paddle the Perception SPARK; I am certain that some one else would be writing this trip report if I had. With boats in hand and our local guide/ducky-master Henry in tow, we loaded up and headed to the longest, largest volume river in the Caribbean, the Rio Yaque del Norte.

If you have never bombed down unknown class IV rapids in a boat filled with rat feces, on an unknown river, guided by a duckier with “cohones” the size of grapefruits, then you are certainly missing out on a unique experience. Unique, but probably not the best way to explore unfamiliar rivers. On the other hand, a duck does make a great probe and most of the time we had ample warning after watching Henry’s lines over the bigger ledges. In this manner we paddled some great sections of river which included constricted class IV gorges, class III boulder gardens, and the occasional class V.

Two and a half hours into the run though we entered another gorge. I was setting up for a boof when I found myself off-line and sliding towards an unseen rock. Locked in a low brace, I was able to save the boat from capsizing, but not my shoulder from coming unhinged. As I was not upside down, I carried my momentum to the side of the canyon wall where I was able to grab the wall with my left arm.

Which brings us back to the initial question, “What do I do now?” My grip tiring, my partner unable to assist me, and facing the prospect of floating through a large unknown rapid with only one working arm, I did the only thing that I could. I let go of the canyon wall, thus committing myself to the rapid, reached over with my left arm and pulled traction on my right arm in hopes that I could re-locate it before I dropped over the horizon line. Thankfully, I felt it click in immediately and realized that I still had time to execute a jet ferry over to a river-left eddy. In my paddling career I have witnessed many must-make moves, but this one certainly took it’s place at the top of my list. I was able to make the ferry, and Jon appeared shortly thereafter to aid me in scaling the 20 foot wall which I sat floating below. Upon reaching the top of the gorge I found a trail, which I followed and pleasantly discovered led to a bar. Despite my injury, the Yaque, with its great water quality, exiting rapids, and beautiful tropical scenery, was a fantastic run.

The next day Jon paddled a truly world class river (which shall remain unnamed for the moment) with our brave duckier Henry who had swam at least 10 times by this time. This pristine wilderness river is everything a paddler dreams about. With smooth, white- granite polished gorges, spectacular scenery, emerald water, and high quality rapids, this river was an incredible find. Jon, who has paddled in 6 countries, indeed rated this river the third best he has ever paddled. While we have some logistical details to work out, look for the Dominican Republic to be in our Adventure Travel line-up very soon.

Chris